Garage door seal FAQ

Three things decide it: your door type, the width of the opening, and which edges you want sealed.

1. Door type. Sectional (panel lift) doors and roller doors sit differently in the opening, so they have different kits. Not sure which you have? See the next question.
2. Single or double. A single kit suits an opening up to 3 m wide; a double kit up to 6 m. Both suit doors up to 3 m high.
3. Which edges. Every kit comes as Top only, Sides only, Top & sides or Top, sides & bottom. The top and sides are brush seals; the bottom is a rubber seal.

Want us to check before you buy? Email a photo of the door with your gap measurements and we’ll tell you exactly which kit to order.

Open it and look up.

• Sectional (panel lift): the door is made of horizontal panels hinged together. When it opens it travels up on tracks and lies flat under the garage ceiling.
• Roller: the door is one continuous sheet of corrugated steel. When it opens it rolls up into a drum above the opening, and nothing hangs under the ceiling.
• Tilt: one rigid panel that swings out and up in a single piece. We don’t recommend our kits for tilt doors; here’s why.

Still not sure? Email us a photo and we’ll tell you.

The brush filament. Both kits use the same aluminium carriers, the same brush lengths and the same adhesive, and both seal out dust, draughts, rain and pests equally well. The fire retardant kits use flame-retardant PA6 filament, for garages in bushfire-prone areas; the weatherproof kits use standard UV-stabilised filament and cost less.

If you’re in a bushfire-prone area, or you just want the filament that won’t ignite, buy fire retardant. If embers aren’t a concern, the weatherproof kit does the everyday job for less.

Almost certainly. The seals mount on the lintel and the sides of the opening around the door (or, on some roller doors, the top of the curtain), so the brand of door doesn’t matter. What matters is the gap: 5–25 mm on a sectional door, 5–50 mm on a roller door, up to 35 mm under the door, and a door no more than 3 m high.

We’ve fitted them to B&D, Steel-Line, Gliderol, Centurion, Taurean and Danmar doors, and to plenty nobody could identify. If yours is unusual (a timber door, an opening with no lintel) send us a photo first. The one exception is a tilt door: see the next question.

No, and we’d rather tell you now than sell you a kit that doesn’t work. A tilt door swings out and up as one rigid panel, so the top and side gaps change shape as it moves, and there’s far less adjustment to play with than on a sectional or roller door. Our carriers, brush and rubber aren’t designed for that; sealing one properly means a custom solution, with no guarantee it will work. For a tilt door you’re better off with a supplier who specialises in them.

Yes, and we do it all the time. A bigger gap at the top than down the sides is normal, so we’ll make up a kit with the right brush length for each edge. Email us your measurements and we’ll draw up a custom quote: where an edge needs a longer brush than the standard kit, the only extra is the cost difference on that brush.

Yes. Samples are $3 each with shipping included: a short length of the actual brush or bottom rubber so you can check the fit and feel the quality in your hand. There’s one for each seal type. Order a sample.

Our standard carriers are 55 degrees. If your door needs a different profile, we also have 90-degree (F) and 180-degree (H) carriers and can send a sample of those too; just ask when you order.

Sectional doors: 5 mm to 25 mm (25 mm brush). Roller doors: 5 mm to 50 mm (50 mm brush). Under the door: up to 35 mm, with our 80 mm rubber bottom seal.

Under 5 mm there isn’t room for the brush to sit without binding on the door. Over the maximum gap for your door type? Don’t guess and don’t give up: email us your measurements and a photo. We have more than one way to seal an oversized gap (see the next question), and under the door a door dam used together with our bottom rubber handles the big ones.

Get in touch, because it’s solvable. We have several sealing solutions for gaps beyond our longest brush, and which one suits depends on your door and what’s around it. Email a photo of the gap with the measurement at its widest and we’ll quote the right fix rather than sell you a standard kit that won’t reach.

It depends on the door.

Sectional door: watch the two-minute measuring video on our install guides page. It shows exactly where to put the tape at the top and down both sides.

Roller door: from the outside, with the door fully closed, measure the largest gap on both sides and at the top. Take each reading at the deep point in the rib (the valley of the corrugation), because that’s where the gap is biggest. Email us a photo of each of the three and we’ll confirm the kit before you order. A roller door measuring guide is on its way.

No. Fitted to the right gap, the filament just brushes the face of the door: it bends out of the way as the door moves and springs back when it’s closed. The carriers hold the brush at 55 degrees, so the door can’t catch it. Your opener won’t notice it’s there.

Up to 35 mm, yes. The 80 mm rubber on our bottom seal is soft and deep, so it takes up the normal dips and slopes in a slab. Beyond that (a driveway that falls away, a broken slab edge, a door hung high) the honest fix is a floor-mounted door dam used together with our bottom rubber: the dam brings the floor up to meet the door, and the rubber seals down onto it. On its own a dam leaves gaps; on its own a rubber can’t reach. Together they work. Send us a photo and your biggest gap measurement and we’ll tell you what to do.

Yes. The kits are designed for DIY and most of our customers fit their own. You’ll need a tape measure, a pencil, a hacksaw or drop saw to cut the aluminium, a drill for the bottom seal track, a caulking gun and a step ladder. The adhesive is in the box. Every kit has a step-by-step video and a printable guide, and if you get stuck partway through, email us a photo and we’ll sort it out.

One to two hours per door. The spread is in the adjustments: the aim is a door that runs exactly as well as it did before the seals went on, and some doors need more fine-tuning than others. A bottom seal is quicker, because the new track screws straight over the old one.

When you’re done, leave the door open for as long as you can, and for at least an hour or two, so nothing presses on the carriers while the adhesive sets and pulls them off the wall or lintel.

Bottom seal: yes, take the old rubber out first. Whether the old carrier comes off too is up to you: the new track can screw straight over it, or you can remove it for a cleaner job. Top and sides: if there’s an existing brush or rubber strip, take it off and clean the surface so the adhesive has something solid to grip. Brick, render, painted timber and steel lintels are all fine once they’re clean and dry.

Everything except the tools. A single sectional top and sides kit, for example, has the 40 mm aluminium brush carriers in 1.5 m lengths, the brush strips that slide into them, and a cartridge of Selleys construction adhesive. Bottom seal kits include the heavy-duty aluminium track, the 80 mm EPDM rubber and the fixings. The exact lengths and quantities are listed on each product page.

Yes, in Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane, from $249, by qualified carpenters. If we install it, the 10-year warranty covers the fitting as well as the seals. Outer areas such as the Blue Mountains, Wollongong, Geelong and the Gold and Sunshine Coasts attract a travel charge. Book an installation, or email us if you’re somewhere else and we’ll tell you what we can do.

Yes. Garage door installers, handymen and builders buy from us at trade pricing, and we’ll send a free trade sample kit so you can show customers the product before you quote. Email info@sealyourgarage.com.au with your business name and we’ll set you up.

The bottom seal does most of that job, so it’s the one to get right. Water comes in under the door, and a rubber seal sitting down on the floor is what stops it. The brush seals on the top and sides stop wind-driven rain and spray coming in around the door, but a brush is not a waterproof barrier and we won’t tell you it is. If water runs towards your door down a sloping driveway, a seal slows it; a drain fixes it.

Both, in the right place: rubber on the bottom, brush on the top and sides.

Rubber (EPDM, in our case) seals by pressing against a surface, which is perfect under the door, where it sits on the floor. Run rubber along the sides of a moving door and it drags, tears and perishes. Brush filament bends with the door every time it moves and springs back, so it lasts on the edges that see movement, and dense filament stops dust and draughts nearly as well as a solid seal.

If the gap under your door is bigger than our bottom seal can close (35 mm), yes, together with our bottom rubber. A door dam is a strip fixed to the floor across the opening: it raises the floor to meet the door, and our rubber seals down onto it. That combination handles the oversized gaps a seal can’t reach on its own, and we’d rather recommend it than pretend a rubber will stretch further than it can.

Two things to get right: pick a low-profile dam if people walk or wheel through the garage, and fit the bottom seal first so the dam goes where the rubber actually lands. Not sure your gap needs one? Send us a photo.

We don’t sell them, on purpose. A sound rubber bottom seal already stops water and dust; adding a brush under it adds cost and a strip of filament to wear away on the concrete, not more sealing. They look substantial, and that’s the sales pitch. Put the money into a good rubber in an aluminium track instead, and when the rubber eventually wears, slide a new length in.

Dust, leaves and draughts: yes, that’s exactly what the brush and the bottom rubber are for, and it’s the difference customers notice first. Pests: sealing the perimeter closes the gaps they use to get in, which is the single biggest improvement you can make to a garage. We won’t promise that a mouse can never chew its way in, but a sealed door removes the open invitation.

Our fire retardant kits use flame-retardant PA6 filament designed to meet the ember-protection requirements of BAL 40, in non-combustible aluminium carriers. They’re the right seal for a garage in a bushfire-prone area.

Two honest caveats. The filament won’t ignite, but it can be damaged in an extreme thermal event, and that damage isn’t covered by the warranty. And bushfire compliance is assessed for the whole building by your certifier: a seal helps close the gaps the standard cares about, it doesn’t make a building compliant on its own. Check your BAL rating and requirements with your certifier.

It stops the draughts, and that’s most of what you feel. A sealed garage holds its temperature better and so does the house behind it (one customer in Canberra told us the icy winds stopped and the house got warmer). It doesn’t turn an uninsulated steel door into an insulated one, so if you’re building a workshop or a gym, seal first, then look at insulation.

No. We import, on purpose, and we’d make the same choice again. There’s very little competition among Australian makers of this kind of brush and extrusion, so a locally made seal costs more without being better. Importing to our own specification, and holding it to a strict quality standard, gets you a better seal for the money, and that’s the whole point.

What we are is 100% Australian family-owned and operated, based in Sydney. And we’re not asking you to take a chance we wouldn’t: these are the seals on our own home.

Brush: densely packed PA6 (nylon 6) filament, UV-stabilised so it doesn’t go brittle in the sun; 25 mm for sectional doors, 50 mm for roller doors; flame-retardant filament in the fire retardant kits. Carriers: 40 mm wide aluminium, which won’t rust, warp or burn. Bottom seal: an 80 mm EPDM rubber profile in a heavy-duty aluminium track. EPDM is the rubber used for roofing membranes and car door seals, chosen because it shrugs off sun, ozone and water.

Filament density, filament material, and the carrier.

• Density. Our brushes are packed tight. A sparse brush lets fine dust straight through; a dense one stops it.
• Material. PA6 holds its shape and springs back for years. Cheaper polypropylene filament takes a set, goes limp and chalks in the sun.
• Carrier. Heavy-gauge aluminium that stays straight, not thin strip that kinks when you cut it.

The simplest check: ask any supplier what their warranty is. Ours is 10 years.

We warrant them for 10 years against manufacturing defects. We’ve been fitting these seals since 2017, nearly ten years, and in that time we haven’t had a single warranty claim. The bottom rubber is the only part that wears, because it sits on the floor, and when it does you slide a new length into the track rather than replacing the lot. We sell the rubber on its own for exactly that.

Manufacturing defects in any of our products, for 10 years from purchase, on a residential installation. We replace the product; if we installed it, we re-fit it too. It doesn’t cover accidental or deliberate damage, or fire retardant filament damaged by fire or embers. Keep your proof of purchase. Full terms are on the warranty page, and none of this limits your rights under the Australian Consumer Law.

Yes. Standard shipping is free Australia-wide and already included in the price you see. If you need it faster, express is available at checkout. We ship within Australia only.

We usually dispatch the same or next business day. From there, standard delivery is 1–3 business days to metro areas in the eastern states, 3–6 to rural eastern areas and 4–9 to SA, WA and the NT. Express is 1–2 days in the east and 3–4 days to SA, WA and the NT. The courier leaves the kit in a safe place if nobody’s home; add a note at checkout if you have a preferred spot.

Yes, within 30 days, as long as it’s unused and in its original packaging; return postage is at your cost. We’d much rather you didn’t need to: email us a photo and your gap measurements before you order and we’ll confirm the right kit, or buy a $3 sample first. Full details are in our refund policy.