Weatherproof Roller Door Seals

Weatherproof brush seals for single and double roller garage doors. Dense UV-stabilised PA6 filament in aluminium carriers closes the 5–50 mm gaps beside the guide tracks and above the curtain, so dust, leaves, draughts and rain stop blowing in around the door.

Top only, sides only, top and sides, or the full perimeter with the rubber bottom seal. Free shipping Australia-wide, a 10-year warranty, and a step-by-step install guide for every kit.

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Weatherproof Roller Door Seals

The straight answers

The gap above a roller door is where most of the dust gets in. Here’s what the weatherproof roller kit does, which one to order, and how to fit it.

  • 5–50 mmgap closed, sides and top
  • 50 mmUV-stabilised PA6 brush
  • 10 yearswarranty on every kit
  • 1–2 hrsto fit it yourself

What is a roller door seal?

Brush for the sides and top, rubber for the bottom.

A roller door (or roll-a-door), on a garage, shed or workshop, is a single corrugated steel curtain that rolls up into a drum above the opening. It needs clearance to run in its guide tracks, so there’s a gap down each side between the curtain and the wall and a bigger one across the top where the curtain comes off the drum: commonly 20 to 50 mm. That top gap is why a roller-door garage is dusty even with the door shut, and why hot air and sand blow through on a windy day.

A roller door seal closes those gaps. Ours is a brush seal (you’ll also see it sold as a roller door brush strip, weather strip or dust seal): a dense row of UV-stabilised PA6 (nylon 6) filament in a 40 mm aluminium carrier, 50 mm long to reach across the bigger gaps a roller door has. The side seals fix to the wall beside the tracks and brush the curtain; the top seal fixes to the lintel or, on some doors, to the curtain itself. For under the door, the 80 mm EPDM rubber bottom seal fits the bottom rail.

What it fixes

The four reasons people go looking for a roller door seal.

  • Dust and sand blowing through the top gap

    Wind blows straight through the gap above the curtain, and fine dust, sand and leaves come with it. A brush across the top and down both sides stops it before it’s on your car and your tools.

  • Draughts, and a garage that’s never comfortable

    A home gym, workshop or storage space is only usable if the wind isn’t coming through it. Sealing the perimeter stops the draughts, and the house behind the garage holds its temperature better too.

  • Spiders, cockroaches and mice

    A mouse fits through a 6 mm gap; a roller door offers it 30. Closing the gaps around the curtain, and under it with the rubber bottom seal, takes away the open invitation.

  • Wind-driven rain

    Brush on the sides and top stops rain and spray being blown in around the curtain. A brush isn’t a waterproof barrier, though: water under the door is the rubber bottom seal’s job.

Which weatherproof kit do I need?

Measure the opening, then pick the edges you want sealed.

  • Single door kit

    Openings up to 3 m wide and 3 m high.

    from $209

    View single kit

  • Double door kit

    Openings up to 6 m wide and 3 m high.

    from $269

    View double kit

Then choose the edges

  • Top only: brush seal along the lintel above the door.
  • Sides only: brush seal down both sides of the opening.
  • Top & sides: the full brush perimeter.
  • Top, sides & bottom: adds the 80 mm EPDM rubber bottom seal in its aluminium track.

Gap over 50 mm somewhere? Email a photo with the measurement at its widest and we’ll quote the right fix. In a bushfire-prone area? Get the fire retardant roller kit instead: same carriers and brush length, BAL-FZ rated flame-retardant filament.

What’s in the box

Everything except the tools.

Brush
50 mm UV-stabilised PA6 (nylon 6) filament, densely packed, in 1.5 m strips that slide into the carrier
Carriers
40 mm wide aluminium, 1.5 m lengths, 55-degree profile (90-degree and 180-degree carriers on request)
Adhesive
Selleys construction adhesive, in the box
Bottom seal
80 mm EPDM rubber in a heavy-duty aluminium track, with fixings (top, sides & bottom kits)
Fits
roller doors from B&D (Roll-A-Door), Steel-Line, Gliderol, Taurean, Centurion and most others; not tilt doors
Made
imported to our own specification and held to a strict quality standard; they’re the seals on our own garage
Warranty
10 years against manufacturing defects

Measuring and fitting

Measure from outside with the door down.

Roller doors are measured from the outside with the door fully closed. Take the largest gap on each side and across the top, measuring at the deep point of the rib (the valley of the corrugation), because that’s where the gap is biggest. Email us a photo of each of the three and we’ll confirm the kit before you order.

Fitting takes one to two hours with a tape measure, pencil, hacksaw or drop saw, drill, caulking gun and a step ladder; the adhesive is in the box. Leave the door open for an hour or two afterwards so nothing presses on the carriers while the glue sets. Rather not? In Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane we fit it for you from $249.

Roller door seal questions

The ones we’re asked most. More on the FAQ page.

How do you seal the gap at the top of a roller door?

With a brush seal fixed to the lintel, filament facing up and in against the curtain, so the door can still roll up and down behind it. On some doors there’s nothing to fix to above the curtain, so the top carrier goes on the curtain itself instead. Email us a photo of the top of your door and we’ll tell you which method suits.

Can I buy just the side seals for a roller door?

Yes. The sides-only kit is the two 50 mm brush seals for the gaps beside the guide tracks, and the top-only kit is the seal above the curtain on its own. On most roller doors the top gap is the biggest, so the top and sides kit is the usual choice.

Will it fit my Roll-A-Door, Gliderol or other roller door?

Almost certainly. The seals mount on the wall and lintel around the door, so the brand doesn’t matter; the gap does. We seal 5–50 mm at the sides and top and up to 35 mm under the door, on doors up to 3 m high, and we’ve fitted them to B&D, Steel-Line, Gliderol, Taurean and Centurion roller doors among others. The same kit suits a shed roller door of the same size. We don’t recommend our kits for tilt doors.

Will the brush stop the door rolling up smoothly?

No. Fitted to the right gap, the filament just brushes the face of the curtain: it bends out of the way as the door moves and springs back when it’s down. The carriers hold the brush at 55 degrees so the door can’t catch it, and your opener won’t notice it’s there.

Will it stop all the dust?

It stops most of it, and the top seal makes the biggest difference on a roller door. No garage door is airtight: it has to move, and some dust will still come in while the door is open, or under it if the bottom seal is worn. Seal the sides and top with the brush and the bottom with the rubber seal and you’ve closed every gap the door has.

Do the kits suit shed, farm and commercial roller doors?

Yes. We’ve fitted them to roller doors on farm and rural sheds, workshops and commercial buildings as well as garages; the door is the same type, so the kit is the same. The limits are size: single kits suit openings up to 3 m wide and double kits up to 6 m, both on doors up to 3 m high. A bigger door, or one with a gap over 50 mm, is a custom job: email a photo with the measurements and we’ll quote it.

Can I use it to replace a worn garage door seal?

Yes. Most roller doors have never had side and top seals, so ours is usually the first, but if yours has an old brush or rubber flap seal that has gone hard, torn or fallen off, pull it off, take the old adhesive or fixings with it and give the surface a clean, then fit our carriers to the same lintel and jambs. Nothing from the old seal is reused, so it doesn’t matter what brand it was. The seal that does wear out on most doors is the rubber under the door; that replacement is the bottom seal kit.

How long will it last?

We warrant the seals for 10 years, and we’ve been fitting them since 2017 without a warranty claim. PA6 filament holds its shape and springs back for years where cheaper polypropylene goes limp and chalks in the sun. The bottom rubber is the only part that wears, because it sits on the floor, and when it does you slide a new length into the track rather than replacing the lot.